Hubert de Givenchy and Coco Chanel: A Tale of Two Fashion Icons ⋆

The world of haute couture has seen countless visionaries, but few have left as indelible a mark as Hubert de Givenchy and Coco Chanel. Both were pioneers in their own right, yet their journeys through the fashion world took vastly different paths. Despite this, their legacies share striking similarities. Let’s delve into their lives, comparing and contrasting these two legendary couturiers, exploring their motivations, iconic designs, and the people who shaped their careers.

The Path to Fashion

Coco Chanel was born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in 1883 in Saumur, France. Raised in an orphanage after her mother’s death, she learned to sew from the nuns who cared for her. Chanel’s tough childhood instilled in her a fierce independence and determination. Her rise to fame began with a small hat shop in Paris, eventually leading to her opening a fashion house that would revolutionize women’s fashion. Chanel was driven by a desire to free women from the constraints of the corseted silhouette, creating more comfortable and functional clothing that still exuded elegance.

Hubert de Givenchy was born in 1927 into an aristocratic family in Beauvais, France. Unlike Chanel, Givenchy had a more privileged upbringing, surrounded by art and fashion from an early age. His fascination with design led him to study at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Givenchy’s career began under the tutelage of renowned designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Lucien Lelong. His approach to fashion was characterized by his meticulous attention to detail and his deep respect for the elegance of simplicity, something that would later define his own brand.

Revolution and Refinement

Coco Chanel and Hubert de Givenchy both believed in the power of simplicity, but their interpretations of it varied greatly.

Chanel’s philosophy was rooted in practicality. She famously said, “Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury.” Her designs were revolutionary for their time, challenging the rigid norms of early 20th-century fashion. Chanel introduced the world to the little black dress, the iconic Chanel suit, and costume jewelry that blurred the lines between the real and the faux. Her use of jersey fabric, traditionally used for men’s underwear, was particularly groundbreaking, emphasizing comfort and affordability while maintaining an air of sophistication.

Givenchy, on the other hand, was a master of refinement. His designs exuded a quiet elegance, often characterized by clean lines, luxurious fabrics, and an understated opulence. His work was less about challenging norms and more about perfecting them. Givenchy’s creations were a celebration of timeless beauty, designed to enhance the wearer’s natural grace without overpowering it. He once said, “The dress must follow the body of a woman, not the body following the shape of the dress,” echoing a sentiment that aligned with Chanel’s desire for comfort, yet executed with a different aesthetic sensibility.

Iconic Designs – Crafting Fashion History

Note: Even though Coco Chanel is credited with inventing the Little Black Dress (LBD), Givenchy’s dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in the opening scenes of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” is perhaps the most famous LBD of all time.

Coco Chanel:

The Chanel Suit (1954) – Chanel’s most iconic creation, the Chanel suit, was born out of her desire to design a functional yet stylish outfit for modern women. The suit, with its boxy jacket and straight skirt, was a direct response to the restrictive corsetry of the past. Chanel was inspired by menswear and military uniforms, which influenced the suit’s structure and the use of tweed fabric. The creative process involved countless iterations, as Chanel was known for her perfectionism, making constant adjustments to achieve the right balance of comfort and style.
The Little Black Dress (1926) – Dubbed “Chanel’s Ford” by Vogue, the little black dress (LBD) became the epitome of chic minimalism. Chanel’s inspiration for the LBD came from her own wardrobe and the need for a versatile, timeless garment. The dress was designed to be accessible to women of all classes, breaking away from the elaborate dresses of the time. Chanel’s use of black, previously associated with mourning, redefined it as a color of elegance and sophistication.
Chanel No. 5 (1921) – Although not a garment, Chanel No. 5 is arguably one of the most iconic products to bear Chanel’s name. Created in collaboration with perfumer Ernest Beaux, Chanel wanted a scent that embodied modern femininity, choosing the fifth sample Beaux presented to her. The fragrance was revolutionary for its complex, abstract composition, breaking away from the single-flower scents of the era. Chanel No. 5 became synonymous with luxury, famously endorsed by Marilyn Monroe, who claimed it was all she wore to bed.

Hubert de Givenchy:

The Bettina Blouse (1952) – Named after the model Bettina Graziani, this blouse became an instant classic, exemplifying Givenchy’s talent for creating timeless pieces. The blouse, with its ruffled sleeves and crisp white cotton, was part of Givenchy’s first collection and set the tone for his future work. The design process involved a blend of practicality and romanticism, with Givenchy drawing inspiration from the elegance of Parisian women and the need for versatile, day-to-night wear.
Audrey Hepburn’s Black Dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) – Perhaps the most iconic collaboration between Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, this dress is a symbol of both their legacies. Givenchy designed the dress with Hepburn’s slender frame in mind, creating a look that was both timeless and effortlessly chic. The dress’s creative process was a collaboration between the two, with Hepburn’s input helping to refine the final design. The dress became an emblem of sophistication, perfectly capturing the essence of Holly Golightly.
The “Balloon” Coat (1957) – Givenchy’s “Balloon” coat, part of his Fall/Winter collection, showcased his innovative approach to volume and structure. The coat’s design was inspired by the simplicity of the balloon shape, which Givenchy translated into a garment that was both dramatic and wearable. The creative process involved meticulous tailoring to achieve the perfect balance of form and fluidity, resulting in a piece that remains a testament to Givenchy’s genius.

4. Crafting Their Legacies

Both designers formed iconic partnerships that helped to solidify their places in fashion history.

Coco Chanel and Romy Schneider: Chanel’s collaboration with the actress Romy Schneider is less celebrated than her relationship with actresses like Jeanne Moreau or her friendships with the likes of Pablo Picasso. However, Chanel saw in Schneider the perfect embodiment of the youthful, sophisticated woman she designed for. Schneider often wore Chanel both on and off the screen, representing the effortless elegance that Chanel championed. Chanel’s meticulous nature meant that she was heavily involved in selecting the garments Schneider wore, ensuring they aligned with her vision of modern femininity.

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn: The partnership between Givenchy and Hepburn is one of the most iconic in fashion history. Their collaboration began with the film Sabrina (1954), where Givenchy created Hepburn’s costumes, leading to a lifelong friendship. Hepburn became the muse for Givenchy, wearing his designs both on-screen and in her personal life. Givenchy’s understanding of Hepburn’s style and personality allowed him to create garments that perfectly suited her, solidifying their status as a legendary duo in fashion.

5. The People Behind the Brands

Coco Chanel was known for her sharp wit and sometimes abrasive personality. One of her most famous quotes, “I don’t do fashion. I am fashion,” reflects her confidence and unwavering belief in her vision. Chanel’s private life was filled with fascinating relationships, from her affair with the Duke of Westminster to her rumored collaboration with the Nazis during World War II—a controversial chapter that has cast a shadow over her legacy. However, her resilience and ability to reinvent herself are undeniable, exemplified by her return to fashion in the 1950s after a 15-year hiatus.

An interesting anecdote about Chanel is her love for the number 5. Chanel was deeply superstitious and believed the number brought her luck, which is why her most famous perfume is named Chanel No. 5. She also released her collections on the 5th day of the 5th month, believing it would bring success.

Hubert de Givenchy, in contrast, was known for his gentle and courteous demeanor. A quintessential gentleman, Givenchy was deeply respectful of his clients and collaborators. One amusing anecdote involves Audrey Hepburn mistaking Givenchy for his mentor, Cristóbal Balenciaga, during their first meeting. Despite the mix-up, the two formed an instant connection, leading to one of the most enduring partnerships in fashion history.

Givenchy was also a collector of art and antiques, and his impeccable taste extended beyond fashion. His homes were filled with carefully curated pieces, reflecting his love for beauty in all forms. This passion for art influenced his designs, often drawing inspiration from classical and modern art to create his timeless collections.

A Legacy of Elegance

Coco Chanel and Hubert de Givenchy were two titans of fashion, each leaving behind a legacy that continues to influence designers today. Chanel’s rebellious spirit and pioneering designs challenged the status quo, creating a new standard for women’s fashion. Givenchy’s refined elegance and dedication to craftsmanship set the bar for haute couture, creating pieces that transcended trends and became timeless symbols of style.

While their approaches differed, both designers shared a commitment to simplicity, elegance, and the empowerment of women through fashion. Their collaborations with iconic actresses, innovative designs, and the personal stories behind their brands continue to captivate and inspire, ensuring their place in the annals of fashion history.